奢侈品玩跨界，Gucci的哆啦A梦_Chinese

原标题：奢侈品玩跨界，Gucci的哆啦A梦

On the occasion of the Chinese New Year in the Year of the Ox, Gucci launched a joint collaboration series with the famous Japanese anime character Doraemon, which has set off a wave of retro and childhood craze on social media platforms. This cooperation is also for commemorating the 50th anniversary of the birth of this popular anime character, Doraemon. Is cross-field cooperation good or bad for the brand? This article will decode the impact of cooperation and co-branding on the brand.

在中国的牛年春节来临之际，Gucci推出了与日本著名动漫形象哆啦A梦的联名合作系列，在各大社交媒体平台上掀起了一股复古和童年的热潮，而本次合作也是为纪念这部风靡亚洲的动漫诞生50周年。这样跨界的合作对于品牌而言是好是坏？本篇文章将为您揭秘合作和联名对品牌的影响。

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History of Gucci

Gucci的品牌历史

What makes Gucci unique in the universe of luxury fashion brands? We need to refer to its distinct history. Founded by Guccio Gucci in Florence in 1921, Gucci started selling luxury leather bags to wealthy elites and horse riders. It became later on synonymous with celebrities and wealthy clients around the world, was associated with the Italian Dolce Vita and reached a golden age in America in the 50’s and 60’s.

什么让Gucci在奢华时尚品牌中独树一帜？ 这个问题的答案来自于其独特的历史。 Gucci由Guccio Gucci于1921年在佛罗伦萨成立，最开始的业务是向上层精英和骑士出售豪华皮包。 后来，Gucci开始与名流和意大利电影Dolce Vita联系在一起，成为了世界各地的名人和富裕客户的代名词，并在50年代和60年代在美国达到了黄金时代。

The brand declined in the 80’s as the Gucci family ended its involvement with the brand. After 1990, Tom Ford rejuvenated Gucci and put it at the forefront of fashion, making it sexy, highly seductive, hedonist and sophisticated. In 2005 the brand became more discrete with Frida Gianini who brought back Italian traditions and emphasized the brand classic codes and icons with a modern twist.

随着Gucci家族结束与该品牌的合作，该品牌在80年代开始没落。 1990年后，Tom Ford又让Gucci重新焕发青春，并使其脱颖而出站在时尚前沿，变得性感，魅惑，享乐而精致。 2005年， Frida Gianini再次改变了这个品牌，将意大利的传统元素和经典图案相结合，强调了品牌的基因，从而使品牌更加独立。

Today, with Alessandro Michelle, the brand is reinvented again with a new image, more eclectic, fun, genderless, colorful, romantic, poetic and magical, that blends dandyism with the Italian Renaissance, a gothic aesthetic, a DIY punk attitude and a radical maximalist transformation.

如今， Alessandro Michelle的加入重塑了Gucci的形象，变得更加不拘一格，有趣，中性化，色彩缤纷，浪漫，充满诗意和魔幻。同时，将丹迪主义与意大利文艺复兴时期的哥特式美学相结合，让DIY朋克态度和激进主义融为一体，实现品牌极繁主义的转变。

Michelle wants Gucci to redefine luxury for the 21st century by creating authentic emotional bonds with younger customers and he has achieved this goal, the latest report from Lyst has named Gucci as the world’s hottest brand. Its sales doubled after 2015, reaching 9.6 Billion € in 2019.

Michelle希望Gucci通过与年轻顾客建立真诚的情感纽带来重新定义21世纪的奢侈品，而他也成功做到了这一点。Lyst的最新报告将Gucci评为全球最热门的品牌。2015年之后，其销售额翻了一番，在2019年达到96亿欧元。

But as you see, Gucci Brand DNA is not constant, it really depends on the creative director and how he tries to make the brand relevant to his vision of modern consumer culture. Gucci brand evolves by breaking its codes, as opposed to Chanel which has timeless codes and evolves by adapting its codes.

但是，正如你所看到的，Gucci品牌DNA并不是一成不变的，它实际上取决于它的每一任创意总监以及对方如何将品牌与当代消费文化的愿景相符。Gucci品牌通过打破传统而发展，而Chanel具有永恒的传统，并且通过适应其传统而发展。

So, let’s now analyze Gucci’s recent collaborations in the spirit of Michelle’s creative vision for the brand.

现在，让我们按照Michelle对品牌的创新构想来分析Gucci最近的合作。

The collaboration with Doraemon

Gucci与哆啦A梦的联名

The Doraemon collaboration is playful and seems aligned with Michelle’s creative spirit for Gucci. Gucci recruited photographer Angelo Pennetta to lens a campaign before the capsule collection launch ahead of Chinese New Year. The campaign imagery presents a hybrid of Doraemon’s signature whimsy and Gucci’s baroque luxury. It conveys playful images in which smiling models enjoy the company of Doraemon inside a villa decorated with vintage furniture. All products reinforce the retro aesthetic that has become Gucci’s signature.

Gucci与Doreamon的合作充满了趣味，与Michelle的创意精神保持一致。Gucci在推出这一联名系列之前聘请了摄影师Angelo Pennetta为其拍摄广告，在春节之前推出胶囊系列。 该广告系列的图像巧妙地融合了哆啦A梦标志性的奇思妙想和Gucci巴洛克式的奢华，画面中微笑的模特在装饰有老式家具的别墅内享受哆啦A梦的陪伴。所有产品都在强调Gucci标志性的复古美学。

On Jan. 12, the brand released a dedicated collection for men and women with the blue character overlaid on the signature GG motif and comprising knitwear, tambourine-shaped bags, tracksuits, sneakers, bucket hats and silk scarves. A new iteration of the Doraemon x Gucci collection more specifically connected with the Chinese Year of the Ox and released in China on January 20 features the manga character disguised as an ox peppering a similar range of ready-to-wear and accessories pieces. The collection is available online, as well as through select Gucci stores, including at international Gucci Pins pop-up stores.

1月12日，该品牌发布了专门的男装和女装系列，哆啦A梦的蓝色图案覆盖在双G图案上，系列产品包括针织品，铃鼓形包，运动服，运动鞋，水桶帽和丝绸围巾。哆啦A梦x Gucci系列的新版本与中国牛年相关的全新系列在1月20日发布，将哆啦A梦的动漫形象伪装成牛，点缀在一系列成衣和配饰中。 该系列可以在线上和通过精选的Gucci商店（包括Gucci在全世界范围内的限时快闪店）购买。

Activations include the façade of Gucci stores in China, which attracted already KOL’s as well Gucci art walls in Shanghai and Hong Kong to further boost visibility, while the Gucci app will leverage A/R to bring the manga character to life. By scanning the art walls and the products’ packaging, Doraemon will be seen dancing.

联名活动也包括装点中国的Gucci商店的外墙。在上海和香港的Gucci艺术墙吸引了大量KOL，进一步提高了该联名系列的知名度，而Gucci应用程序则利用AR技术使漫画人物栩栩如生。 扫描艺术墙和产品包装，就看到哆啦A梦在跳舞。

This sounds interesting but what could be the downside of such a collaboration? Could it be perceived as a form or easy-lazy collaboration which relies primarily on the addition of a mass market icon on the product?

这听起来很有趣，但是这种合作的弊端是什么？ 它是否会被视为一种投机的合作形式，简单地在产品上添加受众较多的图案？

A possible issue here is that Doraemon is so popular that it has developed many collaborations before Gucci. Doraemon has recently just collaborated with Uniqlo and Takashi Murakami, they also collaborated with Hello Kitty, sneakers Converse, and Atmos & Reebok on sneakers capsule collections. Furthermore, Doraemon collaborate with Japanese fashion brands like recently Samanta Thavasa and Aloye. They even collaborated with Korean beauty brand A’Pieu, with Razer, the world’s leading lifestyle brand for gamers and even with Japanese camera brand Canon.

其中一个可能出现的问题是，哆啦A梦非常流行，以至于它在Gucci之前开展了许多合作。 哆啦A梦最近刚与优衣库和村上隆（Takashi Murakami）合作，他们还与Hello Kitty与匡威合作，并且和Atmos＆Reebok共同开发了运动鞋胶囊系列。他们还与日本时尚品牌合作，比如最近的Samanta Thavasa和Aloye。哆啦A梦的合作对象甚至包括韩国美妆品牌A’Pieu，全球领先的游戏品牌Razer和日本相机品牌Canon。

Could this impact Gucci brand exclusivity perception? Is the risk about Doreamon character itself or more with the fact that Toreamon has been associated with many fashion brands, more mass market?

这会影响Gucci品牌的独特性吗？ 与已经和众多品牌联名的哆啦A梦的合作给Gucci所带来的更多的是风险，还是市场机会？

Insights of Collaboration

合作的洞悉

First, collaborations should be relevant and meaningful, so there should be a common territory between the 2 brands, in terms of DNA, codes, narrative, storytelling, so that the fans of both brands can emotionally connect with the collaboration concept.

首先，联名的双方应有一定相关性，这样联名才有意义。两个品牌之间应该在DNA，品牌文化，品牌故事，价值取向等方面有所交集，这样两个品牌的粉丝都能在情感上与合作概念产生共鸣。

In the case of Gucci and Doraemon, this common narrative exists, in particular among young generations. Also, Alessandro Michelle has consistently referenced the pop culture of the 70’s. He featured comic strip Peanuts in its Autumn/Winter 2016 show, collaborated with a myriad of American icons including Major League Baseball and Paramount for Autumn/Winter 2018, with Disney in 2019, even with 'One Piece' Creator Eiichiro Oda around a look book featuring pirates Luffy and Zoro.

就Gucci和哆啦A梦而言，这种共鸣是存在的，特别是在年轻一代中更为明显。 另外， Alessandro Michelle一直在参考70年代的流行文化。 他在Gucci 2016年秋冬秀中融合了史努比的主题，2018年与美国职业棒球大联盟和和派拉蒙影业等美国偶像合作，以及2019年与迪士尼和《海贼王》的作者小田荣一郎合作。

But there is a second element. Luxury brands are defined by their uniqueness, so that they should try to look for alternative collaborations in priority; what means alternative collaboration here? It means Gucci should ensure that the brand they chose with is not collaborating with too many other brands, that Gucci does not want to be associated with.

但是还有第二个要素。 奢侈品牌是由其独特性来定义的，因此他们应该尝试优先寻找其他合作。 Gucci应该确保他们选择的品牌没有与其他太多品牌合作过，尤其是那些Gucci不想建立关联的品牌。

Obviously here, it was impossible, as Doraemon has collaborated and will keep collaborating with many mass market brands. Therefore, Gucci took a certain risk.

显然，哆啦A梦在这一点上不可能让Gucci保持独特，因为它已经与各大品牌联名，同时也会在以后继续与更多的品牌合作。所以在这一项合作上Gucci冒了一定的风险。

What in the end matters a lot is the execution. Luxury brands collaboration should be perfection executed, qualitative, with beautiful imagery, art associations, great aesthetic and storytelling.

最后最重要的是执行方式。奢侈品牌的联名合作应该有非常完美的执行，保证质量和艺术感，也保持独特的审美和故事性。

This is also a special time period, it is important for brands today to bring smile and happiness on the faces of consumers in such difficult times, when many young people are depressed by the pandemic of Covid 19. So globally Gucci was intelligent in this collaboration with Doraemon.

这也是一个特殊的时期，许多年轻人因新冠疫情而沮丧。对于当今的品牌而言，如今重要的是要在如此困难的时期为消费者带来微笑和幸福。因此，Gucci在这种时候选择与哆啦A梦合作是非常明智的。

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